Published Articles

SWAT a Nuisance

Call me a Philistine but, after nine days, I was Pharaoh-ed out, tomb-ed out, hyroglyph-ed out, Egyptian-ed out; instead I ...
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South Africans know it is good to be home

She looked at me as if she might collapse and weep. “There was a fire in the camp site and ...
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A Kingdom of Discovery

“We just wish we had arranged to stay longer. This is the best secret we have ever unearthed.” The departing ...
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Spilling the Beans

Put out of your mind any preconception of what Ethiopia might look like and replace it with the very opposite ...
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Sightings in Sussex

Rambling in the English countryside is more perilous than the African bush I had never before wondered what Priscilla Presley, ...
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A Road Trip through Heaven

They say 'Don't drive there'. Don't listen. The cashier peers curiously at me and asks whether I am Cuban as ...
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‘Abandoned’ in France

Those who want to be hand-held through a holiday should go online before they leave home “We have a dishwasher ...
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Expect What You Pay For

Expect what you pay for … You don’t order a small saloon car from a car dealer and then demand, ...
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For whom the bell tings

The constant clanging of ice-cream salesmen is only the beginning of beachside holiday hell I am not a fan of ...
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The Lucky Number

Chris Harvie finds a range of 'fives' at a lovely Kruger National Park Lodge “Only the Makuleke people can show ...
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Relaxing in your Tree House

Tigers and Birds, Oh my …

Two rivers. Two countries. Two guides. Chris Harvie finds two trips equally wonder-filled. Ngepi Camp in Namibia and Tamarind Camp ...
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On the Cutting Edge of Tourism

A hidden sharp object and fear of discovery make for a paranoid ride “Why do you have a chainsaw in ...
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FEELING FYN: the pool at Fariview

My Fair Holiday

Chris Harvie moves into a mansion away from Plett's seaside hordes Opening the oversized front door, we step into a ...
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A Bull and a China Shop

Some creatures make a big impression, some leave no trace of themselves at all “You gave us the wrong fingerprints,” ...
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Party Train to Pasture

Larry the Landy's last dance was a festive affair with trompoppies and hooch Larry and I had co-travelled many tens ...
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Gold Reef City – The Gold Rush

The attendant looked me straight in the eye and said "She might not look very fast but if she goes ...
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A Hotelier’s Lament

Chris Harvie puts his neck on the line and looks at how TripAdvisor has taken much of the joy out ...
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Relieve me

Never tell a Zimbabwean you are going to Zim or you may find yourself smuggling strange goods We’d driven the ...
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Mind your Ps in Queues

Some traffic snarl-ups can turn the most mild-mannered of us, however good the sandwich I checked the clock on the ...
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The Tour de Tuli

Chris Harvie takes his padded pants on a Botswanan cycling safari It was midday when we arrived, tired, scratched, bleeding, ...
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Blagh in time

The British make a mean museum but their food is for Philistines We were the sole time-travellers in a snowy ...
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Shakin’ all Over with Suzi Q

Chris Harvie braves a fading train and a failing car for a two-week escape in Kenya Not too long from ...
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A Bush-school Holiday

An Eco-course makes for a unique break, writes Chris Harvie The stillness of the bush is numbing – the kind ...
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Glory, Glory, Alleluia

Mombasa's steaming main drag is almost certain to leave you two pawns short of a chess set We have hired ...
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Maputo Blues

Chris Harvie goes looking for music in Mozambique The Mozambiquan capital is well-known for its fabulous nightlife and particularly its ...
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Who Spiked My Dinner?

Guide books should teach one to say "What the hell?" in the local lingo The campsite was clearly marked on ...
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Free State town, dead-end world

You've got heart of glass or a heart of stone, either way you can't wait to go home I had ...
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Ain’t Seen Notten’s Yet

Chris Harvie gives top marks to this family-owned Lodge From the shaded wooden deck, we look out over a gentle ...
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All tartanned up

Country bumpkin Chris Harvie attended a tattoo at Jozi's Tuscan Palace, where he enjoyed the full Monte treatment. Bagpipe music ...
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A load of boules

The seas around Ibo may be short of fish, but the coral is fun to play with - and there's ...
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Just Lion Around

The writer pursues the 'King of the Jungle' in a less-than-co-operative Landy We were calling it the Lions Tour. By ...
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Thank Heavens, it’s Friday

Chris Harvie goes beyond Mozambique's beach chaos and sports bars for a true 'Robinson Crusoe" time “Watch out – the ...
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Hair, There and Everywhere

Seeking a bald man in a nature reserve is like hunting a black cat in a coal cellar, as Chris ...
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Predators on Parade

Seeing the Big Five at MalaMala, the prince of game parks, is all but guaranteed, writes Chris Harvie There are ...
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Good Neighbours

Wild horses drag Chris Harvie to Kaapschehoop - but its antique charm and easy-going vitality keep him there for a ...
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The importance of being Stoned

Driving into foreign lands, prepare for strange customs and stranger sign-posts The town goes by the lyrical name of Loitokitok ...
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For the Love of the Land

Something all owners understand: it takes patience to keep a Defender moving We call him Larry. We don't often name ...
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French Kissing in the RSA

From "love" signs at the local market to swooning over the view, Chris Harvie falls head-over-heels for Parys Wandering up ...
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A Positive Outlook

Chris Harvie stops over at an oasis in the desert that's on the way to everywhere ERIC Husing is from ...
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A hair-raising race to Carolina

Hysterical French backpackers in a beeg 'urry prompt a high-octane diversion. IT was all very sudden, between Nelspruit and Machadodorp ...
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Circles on a mountain

The path to proof of lives long gone is filled with thorns, ticks and dangerous terrain A FRIEND of mine ...
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A place to crash

Rhinos apart, there are few more peaceful places on earth than iPhika Camp in the Spioenkop Reserve IF you've ever ...
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Mozambique: A Little Peek

In just five days, Chris Harvie discovers the many cheap and cheerful treasures of southern Mozambique Maputo was washing away ...
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A Mosey around the Misty Midlands

In most of South Africa, we have bush. In KwaZulu-Natal, by contrast, there is countryside. It's a fine distinction but ...
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Tequila slammer

Chris Harvie tries out an eatery whose decor is as fearless as its menu THE INTRODUCTION: One of Graaff-Reinet's many ...
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Neighbourly Love

Despite a few scares on the way to the ablution block, Chris Harvie finds Zimbabwe ready and willing for visitors ...
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Places of Solitude

Cederberg Trail, Western Cape Sunshine to sepia in seconds. Climb past the gently waving fynbos to sit aloft in the ...
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On the road to Rhodes

Exhausted from standing in the burning sun of the Beit Bridge border and dealing with its long-winded officialdom, we stopped ...
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Little kids and lap-dancing

Whether it's clowns or lions or bearded ladies, everyone fears someone in a circus tent 'ARE we in grave danger?" ...
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Lost in The Mists of Tom

Chris Harvie revisits an old favourite near Sabie and finds a Zimbabwean food fundi. The top of the Long Tom ...
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Scorched sand safari

Chris Harvie tours Namibia with his tent and enjoys friendly people, sociable weavers and affordable oysters MAKE no mistake, Namibia ...
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Pilgrim’s Unrest

It seems there's a host of wandering souls in this Mpumalanga town 'If we are going to be contacted from ...
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Haven on earth

Chris Harvie enjoys the sun, sea and stars (all five of them) at a Hermanus hotel I arrived at The ...
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Tribe’s good vibes

More and more South Africans are visiting Kenya for both business and pleasure. In the capital, Chris Harvie discovers the ...
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Nobody nose the trouble I’ve seen

Karoo camping's a treat - if you can ignore the things blowin' in the wind. We are camped outside the ...
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Lamu’s Like That

Chris Harvie visits this exotic island off the Kenyan coast to find no cars, little alcohol, but lots of charm ...
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Firmly on the rails

The spelling is weird but the Shosholoza ride sho' is fun I seriously hope I am not becoming a train ...
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A tall story

The guide book said 'a one-hour jaunt', yet Sir Edmund's advice would have been not to go at all 'Are ...
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Blood, sweat and cheers

Chris Harvie investigates two of South Africa's dry national parks and finds three rivers, one full and two empty, but ...
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On the road to Nairobi

The long journey means a sampling of every form of transport there is A faltering breeze makes no impact on ...
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A Sweli time was had by all

Rousing white wedding was a skop with beers and sweet, fizzy dop. 'Whoop!" exclaimed the umfundisi, beaming mischievously - glinting ...
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Walmer and The Carpenters

Chris Harvie discovers a true country hotel near the centre of Port Elizabeth. I am always sceptical of hotels that ...
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Spotting the great wail

Chris Harvie takes a worthwhile detour to the Samora Machel Monument near Komatipoort in Mpumalanga and finds that all is ...
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Waiting for the Windmill wines

Chris Harvie discovers that, although Hazyview has yet to produce its own wine, the winegrowers are already serving the menu ...
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Trees too, prawns seventeen

I had been chased away from the sealed Lebombo border-post by the military, tyres screaming and weapons blazing in the ...
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Tree-spotting in Tuscany

Chris Harvie finds that all in Tuscany is not as it seems It is wonderful to be back in Tuscany ...
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Painful Padkos

The search for wholesome foods on the road was fruitless We have many great food traditions in South Africa and ...
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Cool Times in the Kroojah

"Welcome to Sire-hee-nee Bashvelt Camp, Kroojah" squawked Australian Kelly from the Garmin as we entered the camp. Fed up with ...
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The smell of the wild

The rigours of camping teach us to appreciate all the more the comfort of the daily lives we leave behind ...
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Hairy Hippies and Hare Krishnas

A minibus emblazoned with the words 'Bob Marley and the Wailers' in Rastafarian colours bobbed and wailed before a small ...
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Up Sani Pass without a paddle

It seemed a simple-enough plan: climb the Sani Pass in a 4x4, sleep at the top, motor across Lesotho, avoiding ...
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Butlers and backgammon in the bushveld

Chris Harvie lives the high life in the Waterberg and thinks it surprisingly good value. A glinting, slightly wicked smile ...
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Some good in tent. Some not so good…

Not all campsites are equal. In fact, far from it, as Chris Harvie discovered when he toured the national parks ...
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The Wheel of Life

I travel to rekindle our confidence in the goodness of humanity. My greatest fear on any journey is that some ...
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Happy Chappy

I forfeit bomb-making in Sussex in favour of a fervent clap-along I had picked up four jars of very expensive ...
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O Arthur, where art thou?

We wanted knights and a round table, but all we got was some fat French kids and a rectangular pool ...
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Cooking in the wind

Chris Harvie visits a cherished SA chef in her blustery home town and cooks his own dinner. Chefs are renowned ...
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Taking stock of the Karoo

Don't always trust a British ambassador when it comes to breakfast. I had been recommended, by the former British ambassador ...
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When the soldiers go marching in

Alan Weyer's telling stories in the City of Saints, writes Chris Harvie. We passed the Big Pineapple but we didn't ...
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Jacques of the Bushveld

Chris Harvie travels to the Waterberg for some lessons from a thought-provoking ranger. The real Bushveld begins at Vaalwater, or ...
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Karoo in your Kitchen

Chris Harvie looks at SA's 'best local cuisine cookbook' Prickly Pears & Pomegranates By Bernadette le Roux and Marianne Palmer ...
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Die Nyl: A source of confusion

Intrepid and hung over, our explorers set out to find the South African root of the world's longest river. A ...
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It’s all Coming up Rosendal

Don't mention Clarens to people who've settled here warns Chris Harvie "You do know that this is Chris van Niekerk's ...
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The End of the Rodent

I ate a guinea pig on the shores of Lake Titicaca. In fact, by the time it had been clumsily ...
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The steaks were too high

South Africans love their meat, but they can't hold a braai-coal to the Argentines. An articulated juggernaut carrying 30 large ...
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Three’s a charm

"It is good to see you in the dark," was our cryptic evening welcome from Omri Nene, a Zulu named ...
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Stairway to Hell

It's hard to have an obvious limp when the story behind it is so excruciating. It's everyone's worst nightmare. In ...
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Jelly babies come in all colours

She wobbled on her swivel chair like an enraged blackcurrant-flavoured jelly baby. "Why are you travelling together? Going to a ...
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Good oaks and good okes

Chris Harvie reserves judgement on students, but gives Stellies the thumbs up. I had always thought that Stellenbosch was a ...
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An Undeserving Charity Case

Plenty to beef about at a hotel school charity dinner Deep in Central South Africa my presence is required at ...
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Old world charm in the Berg

Chris Harvie finds good trout and faded baronial at the Himeville Arms We had watched the sun go down over ...
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Skiing with Yaks in Scotland

Chris Harvie braves boring bison, bad food and blustery winds to ski in the Scottish Highlands We were looking at ...
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A Mansion at the Point

Chris Harvie discovers a Cape Town hotel which offers the perfect city escape, for a man from Hazyview The smell ...
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Happy days in Harare

Chris Harvie travels to the Zimbabwean capital where dollar millionaires can barely afford to buy bread, but keep on smiling ...
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Talking Italian

Chris Harvie discovers a truly Roman restaurant in Cape Town's Waterfront Roberto (not De Niro) was waiting, talking Italian. He ...
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Touring the Hole Country

Chris Harvie finds that the roads in South Africa are being opened up at every turn. Long road trips spark ...
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Prawn again in Maputo

When the Komatipoort border reopened in the 1990s after the Civil War, we Lowvelders were invited to Maputo to take ...
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A Twist of Fete

Hippo, a bald-shaven bulldog, was towing along two ten-year old Barbie lookalikes, their hair dyed (temporarily) pink. They were holding ...
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Cracking da Coffee Code

Charles II tried without success to ban coffeehouses in London on the grounds (no pun intended) that they were 'places ...
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A great Lowveld Tale

She bills herself, very misleadingly, as the naked chef. Admittedly there was an unseasonably chilly Lowveld wind the night we ...
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What’s good for the goose

Chris Harvie falls for the food of Franschhoek, but finds that his accommodation is hardly worth a mention. There are ...
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The last gasp

Judging from the FATHERS' DAY JAZZ announced on a board outside the front door and the twenty-odd empty beer kegs ...
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‘Tis the tribal season

Daisies, fruiting trees, car bombs and road kill are the signs of an English summer. A howling gale and black ...
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The inside out Chicken

In the land of the head-turning owl, the half-brained chicken is king. Lucky the chicken is testament to this, having ...
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A taste of the Garden Route

Nature's Valley was once a Broederbond hangout (not to be confused with Beau Valley for Naturists which was a let-it-all-hang-out) ...
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Legacy: A work in progress

On 26th January 2007, South Africa lost one of its greatest fans, one its greatest heroes and one if its ...
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Finding the plot

I had been in the Traffic Department in White River for several hours when the chap five in front of ...
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England without defect

St Petersburg, Russia, or Reading, Berkshire? It would have been a tricky choice even in the dark days of Leningrad, ...
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No escape goat

Popular opinion had it, and I knew this to be the popular opinion because I had been for a haircut, ...
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Wild and woolly on the mohair route

Mrs Ball, you have been outdone. For all the fact that you have recently extended your range of chutneys (from ...
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Hands in

What is the capital of Tanzania? Wrong! It's Dodoma, a quirky country town right at the geographical centre of the ...
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The Trans-Karoo cross-hound

Sport turned 119 (7=17) on 5th November last year. Every dog has his day and this was Sport's, but there ...
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A chokka shocker

Most South Africans have never actually been to Port Elizabeth. Frankly, like Australia, it seems an awfully long way away ...
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A nation of shopkeepers

Forget poached, scrambled or fried. Would you like homogenised, organic, Omega E or free-range eggs? Now please choose between Colombian ...
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Decking the halls in Hazyview

And so that was Christmas. And this is another of those thank-goodness-it's-all-over pieces combined with one of those why-do-we-always-have-to-moan-about-Christmas articles ...
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Down Williston way

The Williston Hotel wears its one star proudly, on a plaque outside the door. It wears, equally proudly, a certificate ...
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A farm so fare

FARM FARE Church Street, Graaff-Reinet, Tel (049) 892 3212 I scoured the area around Graaff-Reinet for a padstal. There had ...
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A little light relief

Graaff-Reinet is gearing itself up for Christmas - so much so that you'd almost notice. The girls in Clicks were ...
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Long Beach, California? No, This is Namibia

I ran over a cormorant, accidentally, as it tried to make its way, flying rather low I thought, from the ...
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Getting Your Chambo Right

Lake Malawi's best-known fish, the chambo, is a cichlid (now there's a good word for a spelling test) and its ...
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Flowers to Vleisfees

I don't really do flowers. I could walk into a room full of dead flowers and not notice - and ...
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A colour-blind South African

It's good to be home. Or is it? I have always been pleased to return home to South Africa. In ...
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Fit for a Queen

As readers are no doubt aware Freddie Mercury would have turned 60 years old in September this year, had he ...
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Going bananas in Tanzania

It seemed that we had arrived in the Usambara Mountains in the middle of the harvest festival. From every hilltop ...
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The Great Escape

December is a time of demographic shift in the Lowveld. The population of Bushbuckridge doubles. Toll plazas on the N4 ...
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The Lowveld has it all (but we are happy to share)

We Lowvelders know, without a glimmer of doubt, that we live in the best part of South Africa. There is ...
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Who has been drinking in my pub

Take the Hysterical Hornbill, in Hazyview, for example. Youth chic meets artisan in overalls. Or The Keg and Jock, in ...
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South Africa Revisited

About ten years ago I wrote an article, for this prestigious publication, on the transition of South Africa. Ten years ...
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South Africa in transition

South Africa is a country of extremes; never has the mere name of country awakened such diverse reactions when uttered; ...
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Author and Freelance Travel Writer